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  1. #1
    saferseas's Avatar

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    Default yellow vs. white mesh exposure

    Ok, so i've been printing t-shirts for a couple of years and i'm starting to do flatstock. I've always used white-mesh screens and i'm wondering how much of an exposure difference there is between white and yellow mesh times.

    I've read that yellow should be exposed a bit longer.....the specs on the emulsion i use said to expose 50% longer with yellow mesh....wtf were they thinking, WAY overexposed!?

    Right now, i expose for about 12 minutes using halogen. I'm probably gonna just try exposing for the same time, or somewhere near it.

  2. #2
    weathermaker's Avatar

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    Default

    i've never noticed a real difference, but i solar expose in california, and at 20 seconds or so, i wonder if i even would notice the one or two second margin...i bet it translates differently with longer exposure times...ask anymac, he's the info man on this subject

  3. #3
    Premium Member
    NeroInferno's Avatar


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by saferseas View Post
    Ok, so i've been printing t-shirts for a couple of years and i'm starting to do flatstock. I've always used white-mesh screens and i'm wondering how much of an exposure difference there is between white and yellow mesh times.

    I've read that yellow should be exposed a bit longer.....the specs on the emulsion i use said to expose 50% longer with yellow mesh....wtf were they thinking, WAY overexposed!?

    Right now, i expose for about 12 minutes using halogen. I'm probably gonna just try exposing for the same time, or somewhere near it.
    If the specification says 50% more, add the 50% in more of time

    Testes are always better of long elucubrations!

    Fabio

  4. #4
    Premium Member
    ImJustRickG's Avatar


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    Default

    Here's a helpful hint: Stick to yellow or white. Pick and don't change it up.

    Make life easy on yourself. Or keep notes when you do your exposure tests.

    Also, but a $10 exposure calculator and never worry about this stuff again.
    Shizouka!

    Brg!

    "I don't know shit about screenprinting and can still tell all the questions you ask are retarded." -Blonde
    I can't imagine being in this position and saying to myself "Hey! I bet the people at Gigposters will be helpful!". -Phoon

  5. #5
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Default

    We have meshes ranging from 40 to 420. We expose based on the mesh count not the color. Yes color makes a difference, but I've never noticed since all my 230s are yellow and all my 195s are white. True story, I used to have orange screens.

  6. #6
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    Andymac's Avatar

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    Default

    white .5 to .66 less than yellow. Squee3 is right too, there is a diff between mesh counts as well.

    Keep a card with your times on it for reference.

    you will really notice a diff in the ability of white to expose detail as you get into the higher counts.

    I have an article on it and the value of good contact with your vacuum/rubber blanket - cause I got caught trying to cheat - coming out in the aug issue of Screenprinting magazine.

    maybe I'll post it in the premium section?



    I couldn't get the fine line around the eyes on a white screen
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  7. #7
    saferseas's Avatar

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    Default

    ok, so i just tried it for about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes longer than my time for white mesh, and it came out......but took a lot more pressure to washout than it normally does.....i thought i was gonna blow the whole image out.
    Does a higher mesh count usually take more pressure, or was it still just overexposed a bit too long? If so, i think i'll just try my usual 12 minutes next time.

  8. #8
    andydiesel's Avatar

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Andymac View Post
    white .5 to .66 less than yellow. Squee3 is right too, there is a diff between mesh counts as well.

    Keep a card with your times on it for reference.

    you will really notice a diff in the ability of white to expose detail as you get into the higher counts.

    I have an article on it and the value of good contact with your vacuum/rubber blanket - cause I got caught trying to cheat - coming out in the aug issue of Screenprinting magazine.

    maybe I'll post it in the premium section?



    I couldn't get the fine line around the eyes on a white screen
    wait, are you saying you get better detail on higher mesh white screens? i always felt we got better detail and less sawtoothing on the yellow screen when over 156 mesh compared to white mesh.

  9. #9
    Premium Member
    Andymac's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by andydiesel View Post
    wait, are you saying you get better detail on higher mesh white screens? i always felt we got better detail and less sawtoothing on the yellow screen when over 156 mesh compared to white mesh.
    like my papa said, write to be understood

    - I meant the white wasn't holding detail - so I had to go to yellow, this on a 305. I did a head to head test, white failed
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  10. #10
    andydiesel's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andymac View Post
    like my papa said, write to be understood

    - I meant the white wasn't holding detail - so I had to go to yellow, this on a 305. I did a head to head test, white failed
    ah. got it.

    we've been dealing with green most of today so i'm a little slow.

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