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  1. #1
    farleypig's Avatar

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    Default quality of charcoal transfer

    i'm still a newbie, but thankfully i have a talented husband whose stuff transfers great. unfortunately, we have very different styles and my lines are very purposely unclean. i have been xeroxing the shit out of stuff - still trying to keep some pencil quality.
    anyone have any suggestions about keeping a soft charcoal line? i'm working on something now and don't want to lose it.

  2. #2
    Premium Member
    danstiles's Avatar

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    scan it
    Brg!
    Barricades of hamburgers divide the nation.

  3. #3
    farleypig's Avatar

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    Default

    but what about the strokes that aren't completely black?

  4. #4
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    danstiles's Avatar

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    Scan it grayscale, you'll pick up the grays. If you're going to screen print it you'll have to do a fine halftone. Maybe Jay could give you some hints, all of his stuff retains the soft detail.
    Brg!
    Barricades of hamburgers divide the nation.

  5. #5
    stinkbait's Avatar

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    scan it grayscale and use diffusion dither bitmap. it will hold most of it

  6. #6
    Gregory's Avatar

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    Default

    OR - if you want to take the computer out of it - draw right onto to frosted mylar or acetate and use a Stabilo pencil - they are primarily usd for litho but work great for soft pencil textures in screenprinting as well.

  7. #7
    farleypig's Avatar

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stinkbait View Post
    scan it grayscale and use diffusion dither bitmap. it will hold most of it
    i will try this first

  8. #8
    farleypig's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregory View Post
    OR - if you want to take the computer out of it - draw right onto to frosted mylar or acetate and use a Stabilo pencil - they are primarily usd for litho but work great for soft pencil textures in screenprinting as well.
    and i will definitely try this second.
    shit - my keyboard has charcoal all over it.

  9. #9
    farleypig's Avatar

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    Default

    and i don't want to be a thread hog, so i am going to tack it on here. i just got an email from the agents of a band i adore. i had written them in March asking if i could do a Hamburg show for May 10th. even if it was ready tonight, it might not get to hamburg until the night of the show.
    i feel the need to write the band to ask for permission. Is this a bad thing? I can't totally illustrate, design and print the thing until i get confirmation.
    am i going about this wrong?
    i also ask the venue so that i don't step on toes.
    help. kills me that i missed this one.

  10. #10
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    Andymac's Avatar

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    what they said.

    You can use a really soft pencil and draw on frosted mylar with a bit of a textured surface -the lead from the pencil will collect in the indents and give you texture, but you need a pretty fine 250-300 mesh to hold it. thin coat the screen (1+1) and under expose/very light washout. You can also do 2 exposures - one under and print lighter grey, then second one with more light, it ill only leave highlight blacks to print.

    Stinker's method works, but this way you use the direct drawing, like Gregory sez

    You can also input a pencil drawing scan make two outputs, lower contrast on the first - so you have thicker detail, print that light grey, and do a second output with finer detail/higher contrast print that black - will look rich. dithered/stochastic dots work best if you want that pencil look.

    Litho crayon works great, and also if you put some rough surface under your drawing mylar (like sandpaper) this will give you an interesting texture.

    I did some experimental prints where the artist sprayed the clear with fixative clear to make it a bit rough, then penciled on top of that.

    Ask Foochick to show you some of those Coronado prints, the artists use the double exposure technique to good effect.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

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