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  1. #1
    Premium Member
    JayJaySerious's Avatar

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    Default Noob questions or...Things that make me go hmm

    I was wondering:

    1. When you piece together positives because your printer is too small, how do you bridge the tiny gap in the acetates where they meet? Electrical tape? Touch up the screen by poking holes in the unwanted emulsion? Maybe that old, red film stripping tape I seem to remember?

    2. Once you coat screens with emulsion, do they have to be dried flat or can you stand them up?

    3. Is there a good trick for getting shirts on the platen straight and centered if they have no center line ironed into them? I've tried measuring from the seams with my fingers and folding the shirt in half and getting help to slide it onto the platen but they are sometimes sewn crooked and I keep getting crooked prints.
    What is to give light must endure burning.

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  2. #2

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    Default

    Since I do all of my positive printing on an 8.5x11" printer, I make each selection that I print overlap by 1/4" or so...

  3. #3
    Premium Member
    j's Avatar


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    Default

    #1- same as above

    #2- I dry mine standing up & with a fan. Never had problems.

    #3-dunno, I don't print shirts

  4. #4
    KingKong's Avatar

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    Default

    its best for them to dry flat with the print side facing down, but if you are only doing a few pieces standing it on its side wont hurt, as far as getting the shirts on straight and center the best thing I could suggest is drawing a center line down your palette and sliding the shirt on centering the collar up with the line.

    The center fold will fool you more often than not, don't trust the fold! You just have to kind of eyeball it the first few times, but after awhile it becomes muscle memory and you will just know when you hit center.

  5. #5
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Default

    There is no need for you to dry your screens flat at all. If you're taping acetates together then the ever so slight advantage of horizontal drying is years away for you. I dry screens from 76 mesh to 420 mesh vertically and never have a problem.

    For piecing films I usually print both films with over lap. Sometime this will mess up dots or patterns so on these films I temporarily tape them together then cut them together with a ruler so they seam perfectly. Any touch up can be done on the back of the film (so if you mess up you can just wipe it off). I touch up with a rapidograph and koh-i-nor acetate ink 3071f.

    I'm not a tshirt printer, but I you just have to print enough shirts to get the hang of it (as King Kong said). Sometimes I put some marks with tape where the neck hole is supposed to go.
    Last edited by squeegeethree; 04-10-2008 at 09:13 AM.

  6. #6
    Premium Member
    erin.oconnor's Avatar

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by squeegeethree View Post
    For piecing films I usually print both films with over lap. Sometime this will mess up dots or patterns so on these films I temporarily tape them together perfectly then cut them together with a ruler so they seem perfectly.
    I do this same thing, but I'll also lay some clear packing tape over the seams and touch up the gap with a film opaquer marker. Seems to do the trick for me. Kind of annoying with halftone dots, but still an easy solution.

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