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  1. #1
    jkelly's Avatar

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    Default How I'm gonna make my exposure unit...

    Here's what I'm gonna do:
    Get some of those shop light things that hold like two long flourescent bulbs and build a little box to house them and then on top of that place a big sheet of glass about 6 or 7 inches from the lights and then hook the lights to a power strip so I can tun em on and off.
    Then I'm gonna start burning screens in the privacy of my studio. The bulbs are gonna be "high output uv" bulbs. That's what I'm gonna do, and if this sounds wrong to someone, well please let me know what I should do instead. This is sort of based on all the stuff I could cobble together from various posts about building your own exposure unit and this seems like the cheapest way. Am I right?

  2. #2
    Premium Member
    steve w's Avatar

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    500 watt halogen lamps are $7
    "I guarantee, the image will not be fade off and you will be pleasure it too. " - a bootlegger
    We need to print a tshirt "Avoid sucker effect!"-Fabio
    "fudge isn't sharp"-phoondaddy

  3. #3
    kozik's Avatar

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    Default

    mine invovles a raincoat and a pair of cut off trouser legs I ductape to my leges just below the knee. also a pork-pie hat.

  4. #4
    jkelly's Avatar

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    I usually just stroll out of the house buck naked and those pussy pigs are too fuckin' scared to fuck with a crazy motherfucker like myself, who is dusted to the lids on the sherm.

  5. #5
    Premium Member
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    Default

    I use 8 unfiltered black lights in the same ballasts, hook them up to an auto timer. put the glass 2" from the lights and go from there. i expose 230 mesh in 20 seconds with excellent results. more lights are better in my experience.

  6. #6
    ferg2001's Avatar

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    Default

    that close?

  7. #7
    POE's Avatar

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ferg2001
    that close?
    With the tube lights that is about as far away as you can go.

  8. #8
    loco's Avatar

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    Feb 2004
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    Default

    I would go for a 1000 watt metal haide light source. You can just get a box that fits inside the screen you are shooting.
    Example: if you have a screen that is 20"x 24" and you flip the screen so the ink side is up against the box. It should be small enough so the screen fits inside. I have this type of set up. I have a 4" box with a foam pad on top. I lay the screen against
    the foam pad. so when you look down on it you have the box on the bottom, then your coated screen, then your film postive against the screen. then a thick piece of glass on top so it squeezes against the screen as tight as posiable.
    The distance I have is like 27" from light soucre to screen. I have a 5000 watt light source that I can kick down to 2500 watts.
    The bad thing about floresent tubes that are so close is they cause undercutting. That's when the light creeps in and it start to close up your detail. Like thin lines or small haftone dots. I would stay away from floresent tube if you can. They work fine for big bold stuff but as soon as you get into more detail it makes it hard.

    -loco

  9. #9

    Default

    i'm about to build one, is the undercutting really THAT bad on the flourescent lights?



    and what kind of exposure time do you guys get on your metal halide units? and whats all this ballast and crap i have to get?

  10. #10
    jkelly's Avatar

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    Default

    The clue that I thought I had (just a little clue, mind you) is getting smaller and smaller... Uh, I'm a little more confused than before. maybe it'd be easier to hand draw and color 100 posters...

    Ballast?

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