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  1. #21
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Dec 2006
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    That is odd. The reason I switched to this blade in the first place was that it worked so well with our UVs.

  2. #22
    andydiesel's Avatar

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    Mar 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by squeegeethree View Post
    That is odd. The reason I switched to this blade in the first place was that it worked so well with our UVs.
    I know, right!? It's really weird to me too. I'm gonna order up a roll of it next week and give it another try. I'll probably end up trying the High modulus one first.

  3. #23
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    High modulus is more bendy.

  4. #24
    Premium Member
    Andymac's Avatar

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    Aug 2003
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    Red white and blue squeegee..... July 4th is over boys.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  5. #25
    andydiesel's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by squeegeethree View Post
    High modulus is more bendy.
    heh, I meant the stiffer one. I was unable to wake up yesterday which made me say a lot of dumb stuff.

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    unliving in Denver
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    Spoke with some guys who are using the same squeegee and they aren't having any problems. We thought it might be the table leveling to the carriage which opened up a whole new set of problems. The table was about 1/4 of an inch off from front to back. Measuring 6 3/4 in the back and 6 1/2 in the front. 6 1/2 is as low as it can go in the front and that leaves the table sitting on the frame and makes it difficult to adjust the micros. When I raise the table in the back to 6.5 it makes it so the rear screen clamp is flush with the lip of the table even when the clamp leveler is adjusted as high as it can be. Basically there is no tolerance between the lowest possible level spot in the front and that same measurement in the back. So I cant lower the front cause of the frame and I cant raise the back due to the screen clamp. It seems like it has to be 1/4 of an inch lower in the back for a screen to even go in or the clamp might crimp the table. that would cause change in pressure over the flood and squeegee strokes as it travels from front to back. I noticed that the table is a cream/beige color and thought it was odd as the rest of the press is that American bluegreen color, thought maybe it was a different table than originally came with the press. Going to call the manufacturer tomorrow and see if they have an insight. blurg

  7. #27
    Premium Member
    Andymac's Avatar

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    level the base....
    then check your carraige - it should be parallel to the base and level, the table parallel to both

    Old presses get way out of wack.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  8. #28

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    everything is leveled out base to floor, carriage to table and carriage to base and there is even squeegee pressure across the table but it is immediate pressure. As soon as the squeegee is in the clamps the carriage is already providing enough pressure to pull a clean print without having to add any pressure to the chopper knobs. Its like the whole table just needs to drop down .5"-1" but like I said its already as low is it can go in the front and its now sitting on the frame instead of the leveling bolts. Waiting to hear back from Elliot at AWT. hopefully tomorrow or I'm going to have to drop the back of the table down .25" just to get the rear screen clamp in place. and print on the same uneven surface that caused us to start this initial thread..

  9. #29
    Premium Member
    Andymac's Avatar

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    I don't think 80 grit can fix this. you may need a belt sander.

    At least you live in Colorado.

    Good luck.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  10. #30

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    Oct 2007
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    thanks, still waiting on the call back. I guess they don't make their living taking service calls for 3rd or 4th hand machines that haven't been in production for 15 years.

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