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  1. #1
    J.Shoop's Avatar

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    Default Issue printing white base layer

    Hi my name is Jeremy, I'm new to the site but have read a lot helpful information here and wanted to see if anyone could help me out.
    I'm trying to print a white base layer using union aerotex super opaque white on a cotton shirt with a 156 mesh screen. Every test run I've tried hasn't worked so well, the ink clogs the screen after one pass and very little ink transfers to the shirt. After about 10 more passes and using a heat gun to flash, The image still does not fully fill in. I'm starting to run out of angels on how to approach it. I use both the catalyst and reducer, and have been adding more reducer in each test run to try to make the ink not stick in the screen.
    So I'm running short of options and would appreciate anyone's advice. Although I've read that you can use 150 mesh when printing with this ink my only thought is that I'm using to high of a mesh count at 156 when printing such a large area.







  2. #2
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    I cannot see your pics.
    What are you using to hold the shirt down to the platen?
    Are you using reducer or Union's "stay-open"
    Are you flooding the screen after each print and before you mess around with the shirt removal?
    Try double printing the shirt without lifting the screen.
    Do not bother with the heat gun until you are completely done with the printing (it's catalyzed ink so really a run in a drier at high would be enough).
    Switch to a 137 or 110 mesh perhaps.

  3. #3
    J.Shoop's Avatar

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    Sorry about the pics, hopes this works better. Flickr: sh00po7's Photostream
    What are you using to hold the shirt down to the platen?
    To hold down the shirt I'm using tack spray
    Are you using reducer or Union's "stay-open"
    I'm only using some retarder to slow down the dry time, but I didn't even know Union made a "stay-open". Do you know any places that carry Union's "stay-open"?
    Are you flooding the screen after each print and before you mess around with the shirt removal?
    Yup I flood so it doesn't clog the screen, but it still clogs
    Try double printing the shirt without lifting the screen
    I haven't tried this, normally I print then raise the screen to see what happened, but doing a couple passes without lifting the screen sounds like a good idea.
    Thanks squeegeethree for the tips I'll try the printing technique before I go out buying new screens, and give good old Victory Factory a call about the "stay-open" that's where I bought my ink.

  4. #4
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Or just call Union Ink they are in NJ 800-526-0455

  5. #5
    J.Shoop's Avatar

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    Just tried your technique squeegeethree and work a lot better. I did a hard flood then double printed without lifting the screen and it made a good transfer. Flashed it quick, then flooded and hit it again and the image filled in great. The only other trick I did was when I mixed in with the catalyst and retarder I added a couple sprays of water to thin the ink a little more.
    Thanks again squeegethree.

  6. #6
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    NP. I really think you should try doing this without the flash though. Plus...this line...
    Quote Originally Posted by J.Shoop View Post
    Flashed it quick, then flooded and hit it again and the image filled in great.
    Should not read this way. Instead it should be
    "Flooded the screen, flashed it quick, and hit it again."
    With WB inks your screen should ALWAYS be flooded unless you are actively printing it. If the screen is at rest then it needs to be flooded. That's what's keeping your screen open... the solvents/water in the ink.

    Also this is one of those few circumstances where a soft thick flood might be better.

  7. #7
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    Andymac's Avatar

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    and a high tension screen. Watch your print after the squeegee passes - you want an opaque one hit white, you need a 110 screen and the screen needs to lift almost immediately after the squeegee passes. If the screen is staying stuck and you are peeling, you won't get the ink to transfer properly, the screen won't clear, and it will dry in.

    Shirts....
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  8. #8
    J.Shoop's Avatar

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    Sorry, still new to the screen printing world. I'll try without flash but what do you think the benefits are with no flash? My only reason for using flash in between each "pass" (when I clear the ink through the screen then flood after) is to try to prevent the wet ink on the shirt to stick to the screen. Not trying to come off as if I don't think your idea won't work just more curious of the affect on the process. The guy at Victory had a good laugh when I told him I've never tried printing with this kind of ink on a dark shirt, and that printing WB white ink on a dark garment is one of the hardest things to do in screen printing.

  9. #9
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Yeah, I didn't mention high-tension since he is using static screens. The trick to one hit whites is the highest tension on the screen possible. I guess you could ask victory to really jack up the tension.

  10. #10
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by J.Shoop View Post
    I'll try without flash but what do you think the benefits are with no flash? My only reason for using flash in between each "pass" (when I clear the ink through the screen then flood after) is to try to prevent the wet ink on the shirt to stick to the screen.
    The only reason to flash would be if you're printing a second color with a different screen right after the white. If it's just the white then the goal should be to get it perfect in one hit.

    For your reading pleasure...
    Screen Printing How To | M&R Forums | One Hit Revisited

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