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  1. #1
    Premium Member
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    Default UV ink + 420 mesh + manual press

    Lord have mercy on our souls.

    How are you supposed to get the ink through the mesh? The print stroke has so much pressure it looks the the squeegee handle is going to snap. I fear I will develop man-muscles trying to print my edition. Or a hernia.

  2. #2
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    420 mesh is for autos pretty much. You won't have a chance doing it by hand unless you really thin out the ink to a watery viscosity .

  3. #3
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Also curious what you are curing the UV ink with if you are making the above discovery just now.

  4. #4
    andydiesel's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by squeegeethree View Post
    Also curious what you are curing the UV ink with if you are making the above discovery just now.
    I was just about to ask this question.

  5. #5
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    All of this sounds silly . . . .

  6. #6
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    No way! It's for real. I'm visiting a new shop for a little white to see how other folks print.

    For curing they use a Spectrum 300 watt 24" unit. The 420 mesh is something new they're trying out on a couple screens. 300 mesh is the standard.

  7. #7
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    O IC. Was hoping for a funny story involving some halogen shop lights for curing.

  8. #8
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    It is a bit disappointing that you are organized . . . . can you change the story to involve a microwave, or possibly a magnifying glass.

  9. #9
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    Yeah, sorry. They're pretty good here. I guess what I'm wondering now is how auto presses flood and print, since I've never seen one. I can't imagine they do a print stroke with so much pressure that the mesh stretches way out of register and the squeegee blade flexes over.

  10. #10
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    If the squeegee blade is flexing over then you are apply too much flexi force and not enough stabby force. You want both but try stabbing the screen with the squeegee harder when you are pulling. Yur squooshing too hard.

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