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Thread: Label printing

  1. #1
    SplitEar's Avatar

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    Default Label printing

    Hi,

    I'm printing labels, have been doing for awhile now, but i recently had an order on to a white shirt.

    The labels are located where the tag is, i turn the shirt inside out, hang the hem off the platern and then print onto the inside of the shirt.

    My issue is that my inks is coming through onto the other side, so you can see the label on the back of the shirt too.

    I use Permaset Aqua water based inks.

    I was wondering if anyone has any methods to stop this happening?

    Thanks,
    -Alex

  2. #2
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Thicker shirt, plastisol, higher screen tension, less squeegee pressure, print a clear sealant first, buy a heat transfer set-up. Any combination thereof.

  3. #3
    SplitEar's Avatar

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    My client has specified the shirt type unfortunately, either way they're relatively thick shirts, thickest GSM that i usually print onto. (Gildan Heavy)

    I can't use platisol, have no ventilation and have vowed to never touch it again, i am however using Permaset Aqua SUPERCOVER for these shirts, which has a similar consistency and thickness as plastisol inks.

    I'll look into the clear sealant, never used it before, as for heat transfer same applies.

    I was told that maybe a much finer mesh (Currently using 55t because the inks is splodgy as supercover inks are, dont usually go through a finer mesh.) and much harder squeegee, but i mean, i doubt this ink'd go through a finer mesh and as for squeegee, i'd imagine a softer squeegee would push LESS ink through.

    Thank you for the help!

  4. #4
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    Andymac's Avatar

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    yeah, up your mesh count.

    white shirt, you can print through almost any mesh....55t? is that 140? go to 200 or 230, try that. they make mesh from 40 weaves per inch all the way to 420 or so, in intervals of 20 or so. If you supplier can't get their shit together to offer you a range of meshes, then find a better supplier.

    the mesh is the best control over ink metering you have. As a t-shirt printer, you want a range of meshes from 80 (white on black) up to 230 (halftone/fine detail/dark ink on light shirts). You have to further modify your selection based on the detail you are trying to print.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  5. #5
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Harder squeegee generally doesn't push as well into textured surfaces so you would be top coating the shirt more.

  6. #6

    Default

    As squeegee already said, harder squeegees don't put down near as much ink as softer durometer squeegees as they cut the ink rather than push it through the mesh. Also, squeegee sharpness and angle will greatly influence the ink deposit as well.

  7. #7
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    light grey, or tone-on-tone ink, 280+ mesh, single stroke. Those shirts are transparent, so you're gonna see the tag in almost any circumstance.

  8. #8
    SplitEar's Avatar

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    Thanks for the advice. I understand you'll see the tag either way, the problem is the actual ink is depositing on the back of the shirt THROUGH the fabric.

    I reckon finer mesh, with no flood pull should help me out. Thanks everyone.
    -Alex

  9. #9
    Aaron Gein's Avatar

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    I can back the grey ink. That's what I use for this. Works on white, works on darks. I use plastisol for it and use a tight screen with 158 mesh, and a sharp squeegee with as little pressure as possible to lay the ink on top of the shirt as much as possible. Waterbased ink pretty much HAS to be pushed into the shirt so....I'm not sure how thats going to work for you....

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