Whats your process for printing color on black? ... show me your work!
Hey everyone, Are you guys using underbases to print on Black Paper.. If so what kind of meshes for each layer are you using? I am coming front a little knowledge on the T Shirt side but am way more interested in posters. Whats your process for printing on Black? Thanks so much.. would love to see your work along with your comments
I try not to print on black paper. It scuffs, the black rubs off on everything, the colors look like crap. I'd much rather print the black including borders. If we have to and the image will allow we print white first and then the colors on top with trapping and lots of base. If the image won't allow that then we add lots of white and fluorescent colors to the inks to make them pop off the black. Sealing the paper with a clear will help keep the ink sitting on the surface but the colors will still go dead.
TW hi-hide white plus liquid pigments. Double hit it on the press. 230 or lower mesh. The lower the mesh the more pop because it lays down more ink. Still have not tried s-mesh on black paper since I print in once in a blue moon. White paper works better, print the whole thing black comes out nicer. Plus you get a awesome flat finish on the black vs paper.
No under base. I just print the screen twice. I print the image and than I reprint the screen again. Print flood print flood. I hate under bases. You can print a color on top of color with a higher mesh unless you have areas where there is no color underneath. S-mesh is wear its at. The more I print with it the better the prints look. Also it holds more detail than normal t-mesh. The only down size is it fragile but with you treat your screens nice it does great. The key is to stretch to the middle of the road tension and than it should set in at low tension after a few uses. 5500 is what I like with wiilflex or magna colorus pigments. White paper is the best,only one hit each color. More detail plus nothing like a huge area of tw black drying in the am. Just use the hi hide white and nothing else for your base. tw makes a clear base if you under base it than you can print on top. I think its also the halftone base.
Start by throwing some black paper into your initial test prints so you can see how different inks look on the paper and how they over print differently.
Typically, I hit whit with a 156 and metallics with 110. Everything else is 305 but if the inks aren't under based you get some weird colors... Red turns rusty brown and yellow gets greenish. Over-printing those yields different results than printing over white.
Personally, I like printing on black because I hand-pull prints and doing a full black flood is rough on my old back, the speedball ink has a tendency to scuff more than the paper and I think it looks better not having to trap the colors underneath. This is probably the one instance in the world that I would not automatically differ to squeegee three's assessment.
I'm with Tuffy there - especially about the muscular back strain bit
I've had some wonderful flukes and a only a few disappointments...
In honesty I'm rarely printing other people's stuff at super high quality expectations, but regardless, on my own work, with carefully mixed inks and a fat flood I've often achieved satisfactory results without under base - but i now ensure my design allows me to under-base any vibrant yellows. I think my paper choice has helped too, if I want popping colours I go for blacks that are silkier and less textured/absorbent
I print on black and dark papers all the time - Usually use 156 mesh, but have done as high as 230 when the detail is required. I also print by hand. Metallics usually look awesome on black, and I will normally just hit the white a couple times to make sure it nice and bright. Also I agree with the Pinch that the paper does make a difference. Some blacks and dark grey will really soak up the ink and dull the color down- of course the less absorbent ones seem to cost a lot more here in RI
You want it to really pop, run an underbase white, then without changing anything other than cleaning the screen on press, run the 2nd colour. Should land in register, and be bright. Semi-pop, run the colour, then when you get to the end of the run, do it over (2nd coat.)
if you hit it twice wet, I don't think you get the brightness you would from hit/dry/hit.
Just my opinion.
Metallics and pearls don't want an underbase - they actually look better on black paper than white. And depending on the colour, if you can mix some hi-hide white in, it usually is OK in one pass, no underbase. All colours are different, how they react.