Gig Posters

Posters: 156255 | Bands: 135946 | Designers: 11547                 
   
       RSS Feeds

Username:   Password: 
Register      

Social Networking Activity                 



 Bands  Designers  New Arrivals  Top Lists  Forums  Buy Posters  Submit  Merch Store  Advertise  Widgets  Help

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20
  1. #11
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    White Rock, BC
    Posts
    4
    Comments
    0

    Default

    The soft or rounded edges will come from light creeping in around the edges of the art....which probably means that you need better contact between the art and the screen. Do you have a piece of plywood wrapped in a soft cloth, or something like that, which fits the full inside dimensions of your screen? Without a vacuum blanket you definitely need that at a minimum, I would say. Just making sure there is enough weight on it to keep it flat.
    Shouldn't need to decrease the distance between the bulbs unless you are seeing some 'banding' on the screen (less exposed in the spaces between where the lights are).
    Re: bulb distance from the glass.....I have it set somewhere between 2-2.5". This was the recommendation and it works great.
    One other thing....as you progress, try to find a more transparent solution for your artwork (film). This will drastically reduce your exposure time and the problems associated with it :] Less time = Less light creepage.

  2. #12

    Default

    One more question, is it safe to look at or be around unfiltered black lights for extended periods of time. The reason I ask is because I was considering using my exposure unit as my light table for tracing as well.

  3. #13
    squeegeethree's Avatar

    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brooklyn, NYC
    Posts
    6,639
    Comments
    62

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brycimus View Post
    One more question, is it safe to look at or be around unfiltered black lights for extended periods of time. The reason I ask is because I was considering using my exposure unit as my light table for tracing as well.
    You wont be able to use blacklights for a tracing table. If the UV radiation doesn't get you then trying to see what you are doing under blacklight certainly will, but perhaps you are squinty to begin with.

  4. #14
    Premium Member
    Andymac's Avatar

    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Van Isle BC Canada
    Posts
    11,754
    Comments
    278

    Default

    sand the UV off the bulbs first.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  5. #15
    Premium Member
    lil_tuffy's Avatar


    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    6,741
    Comments
    2150

    Default

    I have seen people place two sets of bulbs in a table to make the table multi-surface. That could work.

  6. #16
    Premium Member

    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    White Rock, BC
    Posts
    4
    Comments
    0

    Default

    I have two regular flourescents in there as well, on a separate switch. Works great. Electrician friend :]

  7. #17

    Default

    So I'm planning on building a vacuum lid for my unit and I'm researching the best places to get stuff. I have 2 questions

    1. What thickness neoprene do I need? I've seen people say 3 & 4 mm. Has anyone ordered from foamorder?
    2. In terms of vacuum pumps, will something like this do? Vacuum Pump - Amazon Then I would just need the hose for attaching to the blanket/lid?

  8. #18
    Premium Member
    boatdreams's Avatar


    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Chicag? Oh.
    Posts
    2,410
    Comments
    728

    Default

    In a pinch (before you build the vac frame), you can stack phone books on top of the screen. Lay the film down on your exposure unity (or tape it to your screen), place screen print side down on the unit (as per usual), lay a piece of black paper or fabric down on the squeegee side of the screen, then place the phone books down. This works like a charm.
    Also, those vacuum space bags work too. Put a flat block of foam on the squeegee side of the screen with the film taped to the print side. Put the whole thing in a space bag and suck it nice and tight. Then lay it face down on the unit and expose.
    justinsantora.com
    a letter of resignation

    "put the immersion on your mensch with a scrub-coaster. then print with a 70 durometer skyguy"
    -Steve W

  9. #19

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Minneapolis, Minnesota
    Posts
    40
    Comments
    0

    Default

    Don't know if you ran into this on the forums, but this is one I made a few years back –*it's still going strong, and the price was right. http://www.gigposters.com/forums/scr...-20-bucks.html

  10. #20
    Premium Member
    exxxlonghair's Avatar


    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Providence, RI
    Posts
    200
    Comments
    544

    Default

    When I built Mine I used Foamorder. I've used 3 and 4 mil and def like the 4 mil better. I get it black, with plain backing. You may be able to find some 4 mil cheaper online, I was just lazy at that point. I bought the vacuum pump of ebay I think, but make sure you have a way to power it. It took me forever to find a proper adapter since I had no clue how to hardwire it and almost blew the pump up first try. I added a switch for the vacuum pump, a used digital photo timer and two banks of regular lights for using as a lightbox (doesn't work as great as a real lightbox). Here is shot before I added the vacuum blanket.
    Last think I would like are some of those hydraulic things, like for your car trunk, so I can keep the lid open. I just don't know where to get them.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •