I just finished printing these album covers for feedbacula. They are CMYK but I ended up printing the white text last rather than not printing it on each color layer. The band and I are pretty happy with how they came out, but the flesh colors are still pretty far off from the original design. I would have liked more contrast on the lips. Before when I've printed CMYK and needed flesh tones, I've used spot colors. Is there a better way to get better color matching without additional colors? I used process inks, thinned with transparent base. The colors were all separated in photoshop and the halftones were all at different angles. The mesh counts were different... The sleeves were also gloss. I was worried about the ink scratching off, but after a few layers of ink it seemed to be adhering just fine. The white on the girls face has no ink on it and you can see it was a glossy cover, which I think is cool.
here is the original design
We printed cyan first, then magenta. I think if I had used an even more transparent pink it might have come out a little more fleshy with the y layer.
For yellow we used a really really thin orange because the yellow was too yellow.
This is how they came out. we also printed stickers and a patch. We're about to print a poster with a similar image and I'd really like to get the flesh tones closer. The poster will be on blue paper so I'll have to print white and then CMYK. Ever ask yourself why you make your life soooo difficult? Anyways, this album is by a really good experimental noise band in Chicago and I highly recommend you get a copy. It's their first LP and won't be available in any other format.
I think your base ink colours are off - the magenta is not as bright as it should be.
TW makes good process inks, speedball are not transparent enough and bright enough, to deliver a closer CYMK match.
If you are trying to replicate a proof, test the ink through the screen you will use, and print 100% (full coverage). let it dry - no check that with your proof colour - if it is too dark (which always happens, especially with lower mesh counts) cut the colour back with halftone extender/base, until you get a result that looks like you base magenta (or whatever colour)
For colour order, we usually print cyan, yellow, magenta, and black
Cyan because you can see it. Yellow because where it goes green you can see that and adjust. then magenta, and base it out if it is too dark, and look for your different combos - flash tone, purples, etc
Screenprinting always seems to print process darker, so you need to fight this with transparent halftone base and fine mesh. And never pull it twice, that makes it really dark...one stroke Eddy
Good luck.....and if we wanted it easy, we wouldn't be screenprinters....