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  1. #1

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    Default Coated or uncoated water slip decal paper

    Can someone double check my math on this:

    COATED decal paper means that there already is a clear base to print on.

    UNCOATED decal paper means that I would have to lay a clear base, dry, then print.

    Any reason to go with one over the other? My preference it to go for QUALITY prints.... so if putting down an initial clear get me a better result than I will do that... but if it makes no difference they I will go with whatever is cheaper... as long as the quality is still there.

    These decals will be used on engine components like valve covers and oil filters... so they need to be high quality and tough.

  2. #2
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    Andymac's Avatar

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    never used the coated.

    When we did decals up the clear we printed usually followed the shape of the logo or lettering although you wouldn't usually see the edge if the deacal was overpainted with a lacquer clear finish.

    Kind of like a die cut shape. if you are just trimming out, it might be different.

    Also, check on use for these. the clear coat may be designed to burn off in a kiln, as most waterslides are for ceramic. Different animal than the clear/coloured lacquer decals you are making.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  3. #3
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    mysterion's Avatar

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    You have to print the clear. Top and bottom.All colors inbetween. That's it. Simple. On ANY paper. It just has to be decal paper.
    "That's the way I like it, baby, I don't wanna live forever - and don't forget the Joker." Lemmy

  4. #4

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    So whats the 'coated' paper doing for me that the uncoated is not?

  5. #5
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    mysterion's Avatar

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    Haven't the faintest. I don't believe I've ever heard of "coated". It may be an extra water-based adhesive for the decal. Or it may be for the inkjet crowd which sounds more likely. Are they 25" x 36" sheets? Or 8 1/2 x 11"? I've never printed on anything which started out less than 20" wide.
    "That's the way I like it, baby, I don't wanna live forever - and don't forget the Joker." Lemmy

  6. #6

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    Default

    I am looking to get an order of water slip paper from Bel Decal, The list lots of sizes but they don't seem to have any support... I was told I had to order via email, and that there were no sales reps to talk to.. even thought the site specifically said 'CALL FOR PRICING'

    To be honest I am finding a lot of businesses that are actually difficult to place an order with.... no call backs/return emails... its like I'm bothering them to place an order. Granted I am not ordering a truckload of stuff.... but its still disappointing that there is such little customer service... heck I'm having trouble just trying to be a customer!

    I'll start calling again on Monday to the other places I have found.. see if they are any more helpful.

  7. #7
    aubrey's Avatar

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    I worked in a model shop where we were screenprinting on the uncoated "paper". Only time I've ever heard of coated is regarding inkjet printable sheets, I'd avoid those. We were doing anywhere from 2 to 20 color decals and we'd always lay down a clear layer, that was a composite of all layers stroked ~10px wide, before we printed any colors. Then after all the clear and all the colors were laid down, we'd print the same clear layer over the top.

  8. #8
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    Andymac's Avatar

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    one modeller we worked for liked us to use a single b/g pass of clear, then the coloured bits, and no top coat, but he was obsessive about making the lettering and logos flush with the surface after clear coats.

    But most need the second clear to create a strong decal, especially on bigger images. We did some full size sets for Case Tractors and Farmer's Friend threshing machines, they were really hard to get off in one go without breaking. the biggest complaint is they looked too fresh on the restored machines.

    There's another method they used for logoing old machinery, they would print everything in reverse order on the release paper, and the last coating over everything in the image would be a silver. then the worker would slap down some clear finish (lacquer or some varnish that would stick on the metal) and the decal would be laid into the wet lacquer. then they would slap water over the paper, which would then release from the printed decal. the silver backing and the print bonded to the machine. It was then over sprayed or painted to protect it.

    These types of logos were the way it was done back before clear vinyl and plastics arrived in the 50/60s. Lost technologies.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  9. #9
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    I use McLogan's in Los Angeles for decal paper, they don't deal with hobbyists, it's commercial printinng stuff. They've been in business since the 40s or 50s, so they kinda know their shit. The Bel Decal guys seem to deal with hobbyists... at least that's the impression I get. There's another joint on the East Coast, Lambert's that deals in that stuff. I usually ordered at least 100 sheets at a time from either place, it's not a material to cheap out on.

    And as far as the double clear, take a close look at almost any old water slide decal... it's usually very noticeable, and usually a bit out of register, which is how you notice it.
    "That's the way I like it, baby, I don't wanna live forever - and don't forget the Joker." Lemmy

  10. #10

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    I was expecting to get at least a few hundred sheets. I already have a decal sheet that I sell, but the requests for new decals and the new, higher minimum qty for an order from printers (silk screened, not ink/laser) means that my next order would have to be north of $1,000. So I'm willing to get into the printing biz again just for my own niche market.

    At this point I really just want some stock to tweak layouts and printing method...

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