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  1. #11
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Also there is the angle of the flood. We are pretty close to 45 degrees with the blade angle to the screen.

  2. #12
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    Andymac's Avatar

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    model T's don't allow no stinkin' angle change. Adjustments are for pooosies.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  3. #13
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    buy an angled flood bar then

  4. #14
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    Andy/Luther, do you think all flood bars are created equal or is there one better than others?

    Sadly, I love the ones I have from AWT.

  5. #15
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Ours were AWT angled steel floods until the batch I ordered for our new AWT came glued in backwards (So that if you used them you would rip your screen because the wings met the screen long before the rest of the flood). Now I order them from M&R and they are just the same with the exception that the angle is correct.

  6. #16
    andydiesel's Avatar

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    Yeah I've been thinking about getting some new ones and the ones from M&R look pretty good these days. The last time I ordered M&R flood bars was a nightmare similar to you experience with AWT.

  7. #17
    l.stalions's Avatar

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    To the original topic, waterbased ink generally is best when it has the viscosity of brownie mix and no less viscose than sour cream. Honestly, that's the best description I can come up with.

    I'd be cautious with flood pressure. You can get a lot of smearing with your print if you use too much. Just make sure there's a nice, thin, EVEN layer on the screen when your ink floods. You should be able to see the stencil through the ink slightly unless it's a rather dark color.

    I love using TW but sometimes it is a bit on the thin side. That's when it's always a must to have some TW thickener on the shelf. It only takes a drop or two of thickener to get it perfect.

  8. #18
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    {LG}'s Avatar

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    stallions, that's exactly what all our textile wb inks are like (sericol, CCI, matsui and rutland) and why I was using such a light flood at first with the TW as I was concerned with bleeding/smearing. I'll keep it in mind not to go too hard w. the flood though.

    I do have some thickener but never cracked it open as I didn't have a clue as to how much to add (or why it's flammable???). I always used good 'ol cabosil for thickening in the past so I was skeered of it. Can't wait to throw in a drop or two next time. Viscosity and super aggressive dry in are the only gripes I can voice about TW. Also, damn, it would be so nice if the TW didn't run completely to the back of the screen at light speed every lift of the printhead.

    Does the thickener get along fine with the slow retarder? OK to force dry? I get paranoid about additives and generally avoid them when I don't have a tds on hand.

    I do have some winged floods- awt. They are set to the angle the Model T is locked into. They work nicely.

  9. #19
    l.stalions's Avatar

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    There shouldn't be an issue with the thickener and the retarder. At Monolith we don't run into any situations where we have to use retarder. Granted, the highest mesh we use is 280 for TW and Speedball. The lowest mesh is 110 for metallic inks made with powder. We do use thickener with TW activator, to promote adhesion, and there is no issue.

    I really believe that the issue you're having is with the viscosity. If your ink is super thin there's no way to keep it from puddling in the back or dripping through your screen. In fact you should be able to keep your screen flooded, walk away from your press for a minute or two and not have a single drop of ink drip on your table. Winged floods are fantastic. I'm glad you have a couple.

  10. #20

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    Mostly the ink controller tool box is on with the ink barrel and you can adjust your ink quantity that you are requires in your printing paper and this option is only with the machine printing press not on the Screen Printing actually this ink control tool is on the top of your machine with your ink barrel where you have add the ink after make a matching mixture...

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