I would like to know how to make my own films with paper and oil .
Do you have tips on how do it ? Like what kind of paper should be used ? Kind of oil ? Should i let the paper dry after i put the oil on ? what kind of emulsion shall i buy ?
Any advice would be great .
I've been searching on the forum but didn't see any articles about it .
I know it's really ghetto to do it that way . But it would be good enough if i want to print posters for our house shows . I certainly wouldn't recommend anyone to try it for a pay job unless they know what they are doing .
I did burn a screen once using water based/solvant emulsion (an emulsion that works for solvant based and water based inks) , peanut oil applied on an 80gr white paper as a film . i hanged the "film" and let it dry over night and it worked like a charm .
Anyone wants to share his knowledge on that ?
So yesterday i prepared 3 screens and 3 films for a poster i'm printing for the 18th Zoro festival in Leipzig .
I insolated2 of the screens using films that i made with white paper (80gr) that i coated with rapeseed oil using a brush .
I realised that you should get a second copie of one of the films to use for registration . I used the black one which will be the final one printed . You don't want to use a film cover with oil to do your registration . I paid 0,75c euro for one A2 film . So the money is not really a problem .
I layed the paper that i will use as a film on my light-table and used a paint brush to apply the oil .
Then i layed the film on some absorbent paper that will take off the oil excess . Then hang it on a rope with clothes pin and let it dry over night .
At this point the films are translucent and slightly greasy .
You won't be able to tape the films that are covered with oil so what you are gonna do is :
The extra film that is oil free you're gonna use to make pre-registration , calculate where you want your films to be on the glass .
And a way to wedge your screen at the same place everytime . This will help for fast pre registration . (im not sure if i'm clear)
Then you can put the film (the one with oil) that you want to use on the glass , place your screen on top . I used a piece of foam with weight on top of the screen so the qscreen is touching all parts of the films for maximum details results .
I burned the 2 different screens , one for 10 minutes (the normal time i use with a transparent films) and one for 14 minutes . And i realised that it takes a longer time to get a screen burn with those kind of films . The first stencil was not that great but the second one came out really good . It's probably logical to say that lights takes longer to pass through a translucent films then a transparent one . So if you try that i guess you will have to insolate your screens longer than what you do with normal films . Experiment...
I wonder if i could use an exposure calculator with those oil/paper films .
I 'll let you know how this all came out .
Also i wanted to share/learn about this technique because it's a cheap way to print your own posters/flyers . I usually skip old posters and use the back . It cost me nothing and i do multi-color poster that i can hang out anywhere on the streets and bars .
If you never screenprinted before i would suggest that you tried it first using real films printed by a professional so you will understand and starts printing directly and experiment later .
re the exposure calc, they measure exposure based on a 'regular' (clear) film. So any time it gave you would be overexposed according to the calc.
the paper or oiled paper technique requires much longer exposures due to the lack of transparency of the 'film' - as you noticed, approx 1.5 times longer than normal. We used unoiled paper, the exposure was 3x the normal time. ONce you use this technique a few times and standardize it, (time, paper, light source type/distance, emulsion, coating, mesh colour) you should be able to find a time that gives you consistant results.
It takes us 6.5 minutes to burn a screen with transparencies, and 7 minutes with oiled 20# bond paper. We just used canola oil. Sponge off the excess and let 'em dry overnight. Lay some cellophane over your exposure unit so you don't need to clean off oil residue afterwards.
If you don't have a step wedge, get one. They're a couple of bucks, and they make it SO EASY to figure out proper exposure times.