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  1. #1

    Thumbs up My One-Arm Bandit DIY build! (many pics)

    I decided to post this build I did to make a "One-Arm Bandit" or otherwise known as a "Cincinatii One-Arm". These plans are based off of Hern Berferd's plans that he posted on Gigposters.com.
    So let's begin!

    These are the raw materials I bought these on McMaster & Carr site, McMaster is awesome!
    1 Deep Strut Channel, Slotted,2-7/16"x 1-5/8",zinc-plated Steel,3'length
    1 Steel,1-1/2"square,6'length, Perforated Tubing For, Heavy Duty Telescoping-tube Framing, and
    1 Steel,1-3/4" Square,4'l,perforated Tubing For, Heavy Duty Telescoping-tube Framing

    I also purchased hardware from McMaster & Carr:
    2 Tee connector plates
    1 set of Connector fasteners, or bolt/nut/washer kit (item # 4931T334)
    1 Locking Pin For 1-1/2" & 1-3/4" Square Tubing

    The bearing system I purchase was from VXB.com


    This strut fits larger wooden squeegees perfectly


    This is how I mounted the perforated 6' bar to the linear bearing casters. I just used a piece of scrap hardwood, approx 1.5" thick (two boards).


    Below is how the linear bearings affix to the board(s)


    I needed to counter sink my bolts so they didn't rub on the bar rail


    The image below shows that I needed some wriggle room for my bearings. If I tightened the bearings real tight, the system "grinded" and did not move freely on the bar. So I just loosened the bolts a little.


    Below is the Tee connector hardware and how I attaches with the bolts supplied in the connector fasteners


    One of the only heavy fabricating is drilling a 1/2" hole in the middle of the strut to accept the Tee Connector(s)


    Using a bolt/washer/nut combo supplied from the Connecting Fasteners kit, I assembled the bar/squeegee gantry like this (the Connecting Fasteners kit is shown in the lower right in the plastic bag


    Below is a shot of the perforated bar, spacer (approx 9" of 4"x4" wood), and the hardwood plate that's affixed to the bearings. I used a long 8" half-inch bolt for this. It's helpful to have a drill press to make sure you're drilling straight down. I did not


    Here's another shot of the perforated bar, spacer and board from below. Note the counter sunk bolts.


    Here's a pic (below) of the gantry slid onto the bar. Heavy metal here!


    Featured below is a 1 3/4" perforated bar that slips over the six-foot 1.5" bar. I use a locking pin to make the addition quick. This feature is optional as I felt I needed a longer arm to pull with


    Final shot of the gantry with the extender bar attached


    Here is a video of the final build!


    Reply with any comments/questions/suggestions!
    Good luck!

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Meridian, ID
    Posts
    1
    Comments
    0

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    Looks good, have you printed with it yet? Any issues, I'm looking to build one to print wakeboard and snowboard graphics...60in x 18in, think there would be an issues building one of these to print that large?

    ray
    Phalanx Wakeboards

  3. #3
    Premium Member
    Nicholas Wilson's Avatar

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Posts
    1,659
    Comments
    408

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    might want to put a rubber stop on that squeegee holder so it doesn't pop every time. I can just imagine it flinging ink back on you.

    other than that, looks freaking amazing. let us know it goes.
    The Half and Half
    Now Selling Speedball Ink for all your East Coasters.

  4. #4

    Default

    I did print with it. This video is of a t-shirt with discharge ink printed on it. Thus the image is a little faint, but you can see the sharpness. The orientation of the screen pivoting where it does and the axis of the arm, allows me to back flood easily (not shown in video). NWilson, i did thread some holes in the squeegee holder to insert bolts to hold the squeegee better. Ray, this would definitely be something for snowboard/wake board printing because of the size. I tried printing traditionally with weights on my squeegee to add more downward pressure, only to sweat all over my screen ;p This way it much more controlled. I'm looking to get a longer rod, so i can print larger screens.

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