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  1. #1
    Premium Member
    exxxlonghair's Avatar


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    Default EnviroHaze Stain Remover?

    Do any of you have any experience using the Envirohaze stain and ghost image remover? I decided to test it out on a few screens today and it didn't seem to do shit.

    All of the screens I was using it on were perfectly clean, no clogged ink or old emulsion- just ghost images from darker colored prints. I know it's mostly cosmetic, but I wanted to see if I could get the screens looking new again. I followed the directions, applied, scrubbed, let it sit 5 min or so, power washed and there was no noticeable difference. I am wondering if I didn't do something correctly or if the only way to really get the screens like new is to ditch the hippy dehazer and use the deadly stuff.

  2. #2
    Premium Member
    Robopocalypse's Avatar

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    Default

    I've tried it a few times with the same results you've had. The only time it seemed to remove any dark ink ghost image was if I reclaimed and dehazed almost immediately after printing.

  3. #3
    Thornysarus's Avatar

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    Default

    Ditch the hippy dehazer.

    Sure, the other stuff will melt your balls off, but consider that your personal sacrifice for your art.

  4. #4
    halfmassive's Avatar

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    Default

    I used that same stuff and it didn't do much. I tried letting it sit longer too (30 min.) and all it did was make a sharpie mark that I had on the screen bleed.

  5. #5
    paul204's Avatar

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    Default

    I do not use that de-hazer, but mine is rated for 20 minutes. If I leave my screens coated with it for one hour it will remove emulsion and solvent-based ink stains. It's a Kiwo de-hazer.

    Plastisol ghosting can't be gotten with it though. Guess I'll have to clean better.

  6. #6

    Default

    I use Kiwo Mega-Clean, it's a caustic dehaze paste, or Sericol Dehaze paste - They're basically the same thing, here the Kiwo product is marginally cheaper though.
    For regular solvent inks you can use the thinner used to thin your ink (from the same manufacturer) to clean your screen after you're done blowing the stencil off. It's always been effective in removing the more stubborn haze/ghost/ink residue.

    Water based is a bit of a prick in that the thinner is water, which is practically useless in removing stain and tiny residue. the de-hazing product you activate with a screen wash is pretty helpful with waterbased ink haze. I don't know what product you guys have but you'll brush the dehaze liquid onto a dry mesh, then let the product completely dry, brush on the screen wash to activate the dried dehaze, let sit for 5 mins, then blast the shit out of it with a pressure washer. I've found this product the most effective. Here it's a product called "EcoChem" (Eco for economical, it'll still kill dolphins) It's a variant of the Autotype product titled CPS.

    The Autotype CPS is probably the better product, like all Autotype product really.

  7. #7
    Premium Member
    TripleStampPress's Avatar


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    Default

    A better question might be:

    Does anyone know of an Eco-friendly Haze Remover that works better for water-based ink?

  8. #8
    squeegeethree's Avatar

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TripleStampPress View Post
    A better question might be:

    Does anyone know of an Eco-friendly Haze Remover that works better for water-based ink?
    No, not really. Is ammonia eco-friendly. It does a number on WB inks. Haze might be a different matter though.

  9. #9
    Premium Member
    Andymac's Avatar

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    Default

    The Screen-Cleaning Boxing Ring | ScreenWeb | screenweb.com

    we use a caustic one, (something something 750, I'm too lazy to get up and go to the studio to look. Some company in California) but not that often. Certain stains it will not take out. Leave it on too long, it will weaken or rip the screen.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

  10. #10
    vrooooom's Avatar

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    Default

    The kiwo system is pretty nice; you leave the haze remover on and it's ok to dry overnight. Then use the ink wash / HR activator to clean / spray out. If you don't use a power washer, it's do not pass go, do not collect $200 dollars.

    But I like the kiwo system, is what I'm saying.

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