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  1. #1
    Premium Member
    ISKRA's Avatar


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    Default Printing with Iron Oxide Powder?

    Looking for any advise before we dive into production...

    Plan to print with an iron oxide powder mixed into a clear. (why not)
    Iron Powder, super fine

    Did a hand pulled draw down with 230 mesh 10/1 ratio of TW clear flat base/Iron oxide powder. Created an interesting light gray textured print (feels like a fine grit sandpaper). Will need to mix in allot more powder to achieve a dark gray flood. Originally intending to make a dark gray/black metallic look, but like the outcome - matte iron texture.

    Questions:
    Anyone ever try this before?
    Would TW overprint clear, TW halftone extender or Speedball gloss varnish be better choices for the clear base?
    Will we be damaging the mesh and squeegee, printing with auto press?
    Adhesion looks OK on the 10/1 ratio but (wondering out loud...) will we be creating issues and potential offsetting with a higher powder to clear ratio.
    Anything we should consider?

    Want to hit up all the heads, before we get in over our own heads.
    We crazy._LL

  2. #2
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    Default

    If you're printing with rust, shouldn't it be red? Just curious.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Check out the link ...it's a gray powder
    The draw down has not rusted yet

  4. #4
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    Default

    I think it should should work fine. If it is finely milled I don't see why it would damage your squeegee or stencil.
    TW has Iron Oxide Yellow and Iron Oxide Brown as single pigment inks, I use them all the time.
    You should be able to mix much heavier than 10-1, and still be in good shape. I mix their Flo pigments close to 1 pound per quart, and you can go heavier than that.
    Use TW Clear Base. 5030 for semigloss, 5530 for flat. Overprint clear is a varnish, not meant for this.
    Do it up.

  5. #5
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    Default

    I did some prints in a different way. I painted cardboard & wood with the iron oxide. Let dry and then I printed over it with black screenprint paint. After it dried I began 'rusting' the prints. I tried sealing the rust to 'freeze' the rust but I didn't like the look the sealer gave so i didn't seal/protect the remaining prints. I like that they continue to rust. if you do go that route be aware that in humid climates the rust will overtake the paint. A piece I had in FL turned to a sheet of rust. But In Chicago I have a few of the pieces and they are fine.

    I will try to upload some images later so you can see what I'm talking about.

  6. #6
    Premium Member
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    Default

    Thanks for the advice and vote of confidence!
    Think the TW semigloss will make it look more metallic sparkle? (It's a fine powder).

  7. #7
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    That sounds really cool! The rust is a bonus. Can't wait to see the images. THANKS!

  8. #8
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    No, if it's iron oxide it will go down straight up gray or brown. I doubt there will be much if any metallic effect, regardless of the base you use.
    In general I use the semigloss base for metallics though.
    Crosshair pushing here until its limit the bringing together.

    www.crosshairchicago.com

    "Every single Crosshair poster I've ever seen is almost exactly the same. Do these guys even have a bit of creativity in them? I mean, come one - shitty old building pics photoshopped with text over them. Pretty pathetic to say the least."

    "it just seems like so little effort is put into creating this? am i missing something?"

  9. #9
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    ANy reason why you use the semigloss for metallic versus their "metallic clear"?

  10. #10
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    Default

    the metallic clear is similar, I think the advantage of it is it somehow inhibits the oxidation you get with some metallic powders with waterbased inks. But that's what you want, right?

    You want a metalflake look, get pearlescent powder and mix in with your inks. I use it in black and it turns it gunmetal grey. the more coats, the deeper the look and sparkle under light.

    When running metallics or powders, you want to be constantly mixing/remixing your inks - the powders will settle out and separate, and if they are big enough, start to clog the screen. Don't be afraid to flush out the screen with some water/so34 mixture during the un to keep it open.

    that's all I got, post pictures. Judge, that rust idea sounds pretty cool.
    Andymac

    services www.squeegeeville.com
    equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com

    Todo es empezar.

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