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why did my post turn into a link? hmmm

official new desktop wall paper

Lewis paper or Xpedex for non archival commercial paper.

awesome.. soo happy right now.

Chicago Printers Guild
meet the chicago peoples.. and stalk them. also leave dead animals at their doorsteps.

meh, only good for screening on something up to 4" thick. mounted masonite most likely.

increase the stencil thickness.

yes but only to produce lithographs, either stone or ball grain aluminum plate. the material itself is very opaque and can be treated like ink. for photoplate litho and screen printing, tusche washes...

i have no luck with strip e doo. i used image star emulsion remover. once in a while i'll dehaze with franmars dehaze to get them extra squeeky clean.

I always double check my seps with a loupe and lighttable, sooo short answer, yes. it is better to double up and check with a loupe than to send twice and ruin the positive.

pin registration

nope, for textiles use textile inks. speedball poster ink on shirt wont last in the wash. speedball textile is meh.

waterbased inks causes paper to curl, swell, shrink, and warp. solvent doesn't have this problem. you just learn to deal with it. proper trapping, and paper racking.

depends on what you want, space, equipment, and intent, etc. personal studio, group shared studio, open studio, co-op, a combination of all the above?
the problem is space availability, storage...

1. bleeding - ink too thin, more upright squeegee angle.
2. bubbling - laying ink down too heavily, more off contact or more screen tension, more upright squeegee angle.
3. streaking - less...

it's not stricktly about the goodies posted in the premium section but that overall this website give out free helpful information, gigs, events, classified younameit etc and advice from people in...

assuming that your positives are dense, glass is spotless, and coating is even. it sounds like you need to up your time. i only get pinholes when it's coated single side, which results in recoating...

some fine art hand printed shops don't use stones or even ball grained aluminum plates anymore. they're shot on kodak capricorn or emerald plates.

i think you need to post more details of the job. it'll give us more information of what to suggest. you'll probably end up using water based varnish. oil based varnish will probably be better. if...

FUUUU ... there a part of me that wants to make a 12hr drive for a drying rack and screens. im sure a local would scoop by tomorrow. :/

i dont see why it wouldnt work on aluminum screens. insted of staples. tack with C-clamp or glue.

Warp&Weft. the third side is already tensioned when locked in place, whatever waviness cause by...

sweet kegerator!

for me with blacklights unless it's photocopies it should be under a minute. ulano QTX, coated single side on 305mesh, i have perfect exposures at 17 seconds using Westar laser...

with that image size, 3 ft seems sort of far, drop it to 24"

depends on the varnish. seems like printing a layer of varnish will be much more reliable, faster, and definitely cheaper than spray. speedball varnish dries and stays tacky. TW stays tacky for a bit...

sell cats, buy space heater.
it will be cold. you will have to wash out screens and equipment, you'll probably be wet. have fun waiting for stuff to dry.