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Type: Posts; User: jonkeefe; Keyword(s):

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  1. If you don't mind coated paper, try locating a...

    If you don't mind coated paper, try locating a domestic manufacturer of offset paper. Check out their cover-weight stocks. Ask for sample books, find some weights that match what you need, try 'em...
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    Yeah, it's not in the regular books (we have...

    Yeah, it's not in the regular books (we have those) but in the PREMIUM METALLICS book -- which I don't want to buy.

    Here's a web swatch:...
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    Pantone Metallic pigments

    We have the basic 14 water-based Pantone pigments from ryonet/matsui, but we've got a client who wants a color in the premium metallics range -- where can I find a silver pigment that'll play nice...
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    Let's see some pictures. Is all the ink...

    Let's see some pictures.

    Is all the ink clearing your screen with your print stroke? We usually do a second stroke before flooding if the ink doesn't wanna leave the screen.
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    16x16", 1600W would be plenty big. No need to get...

    16x16", 1600W would be plenty big. No need to get the fancy ones with foot pedals, digital displays, timers, etc. Just a basic on/off will do for now. Radiant/black-body sources are better than the...
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    Textile printer here. We struggled with...

    Textile printer here. We struggled with water-based inks on fabrics for a couple years before finally switching over to plastisol. So much more opaque, no dry-in, no spraying with water, you can...
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    Is it ripping right at the edge? We had a batch...

    Is it ripping right at the edge? We had a batch of screens with too much glue applied to the mesh, it hardened into a razor-sharp crust that popped screens if you pushed on the print side of the mesh...
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    Just get a "7/99" rubber stamp made, everybody...

    Just get a "7/99" rubber stamp made, everybody wins
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    What?

    What?
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    I always found spray bottles too messy. If we...

    I always found spray bottles too messy. If we have to leave the screen unflooded for any period of time, we'll wipe both sides with damp rags to clear out any ink that might otherwise dry in. Some...
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    If you're just *slightly* out of reg, fix it...

    If you're just *slightly* out of reg, fix it blind: put your next sheet of paper down where you think it should go, do a test print. If it lines up, move your tabs. If not, try again.

    Printing the...
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    Underexposed emulsion sucks, it's really hard to...

    Underexposed emulsion sucks, it's really hard to remove in spots where there's already some ghosting.

    Pressure washer is key -- especially with water resistant emulsions -- but I sometimes end up...
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    I hear you on the matte base -- we've had a...

    I hear you on the matte base -- we've had a couple of print runs where a black top coat ends up sticking. Generally we'll only see it when the inks start to dry out and get a bit gummier, but we've...
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    You'd need AccuRIP or something similar if you...

    You'd need AccuRIP or something similar if you wanted to get the most out of your all-black system. Settings for droplet density, halftones, etc etc. A good RIP and a good CIS are two things that you...
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    We buy some gallons of Speedball acrylic (notably...

    We buy some gallons of Speedball acrylic (notably white), but most everything else is mixed from Matsui/R2O clear or matte base and pigments. We've had big problems air-curing opaque fabric WB inks...
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    We use 305, or 280. Wouldn't use less than 230....

    We use 305, or 280. Wouldn't use less than 230. 305 is no problem unless you're using thick opaque textile inks!

    Mesh / DPI suggestions:
    86 / 18
    110 / 22
    160 / 32
    230 / 46
    280 / 56
    305 / 61
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    Green Galaxy WB Inks

    http://www.silkscreeningsupplies.com/green-galaxy-ink

    Anyone try 'em? What's the deal?

    We buy Matsui/R2O inks through this site, super great for paper, wondering if this new brand is worth...
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    Fake printhead with external tanks, so you can...

    Fake printhead with external tanks, so you can buy bulk ink: click here

    We have two 1430s now, one with an all-black CIS for films and another with a color CIS for the occasional digital print.
    ...
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    Maybe try using a rich black so all your...

    Maybe try using a rich black so all your cartridges get used equally. And get a CIS, they're worth the money!
  20. Rad thread, good info.

    Rad thread, good info.
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    R2O water-based inks from Ryonet are available in...

    R2O water-based inks from Ryonet are available in pantone kits. They're nice.
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    When you were washing out, did you spray both...

    When you were washing out, did you spray both sides of the screen? If you're not exposing long enough, there'll be a thin layer of not-fully-cured emulsion on both sides.
  23. Thread: Moire?

    by jonkeefe
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    Did you stretch your own screens? We've only seen...

    Did you stretch your own screens? We've only seen moire patterns take on crazy curves if our mesh isn't stretched evenly; the curving lines of the pattern are following the weave of the mesh.
  24. They're great on paper. We went the opposite way...

    They're great on paper. We went the opposite way for fabric; printing water-based on fabric is a fucking nightmare, especially on long runs or with opaque inks. Babying the ink really kills...
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    Greenscreens sound like the ones you're talking...

    Greenscreens sound like the ones you're talking about. We have a few, they're great.
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