Mesh count question

[Aaron Gein]

I think I probably already know the right mesh to use here, but I just wanted to double check with the GP mass consciousness before I buy a couple yards....

I am going to be printing TW 5000 onto a chalkboard painted piece of masonite. I did an adhesion test with an old screen I happened to have lying around that has 196 mesh on it. It worked well, gave a nice sharp print, and the TW stuck nicely. I only have black TW right now so thats what I did the test with. The thing is, they want to print this sign with white. So I need it to be pretty opaque to cover the blackness of the chalkboard paint. Do you guys think 196 mesh is good enough, or should I go lower for more ink laydown and more opacity? If so, how low do you think I could go without risking smearing? I already have some 230 mesh that I haven't stretched yet...would that be too fine?

I'm thinking 180 or 196 would probably be good, but if I could use the 230 I already have that would be great. What say you, GP?

[squeegeethree]

We just started using 137 mesh screens and we are loving it. I would try a 156 or lower for this but it depends on how much detail is needed. Build up your stencil by coating it 1/1 and after drying 1/1 again. The thicker the stencil the better your white will look.

[Aaron Gein]

Thanks Luther!

There will be a fair amount of detail. I was thinking about 158 to lay down more ink, but was a little concerned about it smearing. Though I'm going to be using a freshly tensioned Newman roller frame so my mesh will be nice and tight, so I probably don't need to worry about that too much. I guess I'll give some 158 a shot and have a 180 ready as a backup.

[Fools Gold]

Thick stencils are awesome . . . .

[Aaron Gein]

Definitely going to try it out. I've never done a second coat on top of the first dried coat.

[PedalPrinting]

Depending on the design(if its loose, no tiny details) you can get away with laying first coat of ink, let it dry, then apply a second directly on top. I would suggest keeping the screen and registration in place, clean it with some water/ink cleaner mix if you have to wait a little between first and second coat. If you have ANY play in your registration or clamp setup this method could be out the door.

Solvent inks typically go down very opaque as well.

I'd only suggest the above if you can't get desirable results from a lower mesh count. Who wants more work if its not necessary....

[paul204]

I only have experience with solvent inks with a shit-ton of flattener added, but a 180 was more than low enough to get shit-white prints on richlite, similar to chalkboard-finish. The finish seals the wood so it's not very absorbent which makes it pretty easy to get nice bright whites.

[edwardo_machino]

A few years ago I printed this on the top of a box I made to store the dog's food - it is painted plywood. I used 158 mesh screen with water ink of some sort. Since both chalk paint primed masonite and painted plywood are more or less non-absorbent, perhaps this is applicable. I got some decent detail, especially considering the image is only 6x8". One push stroke.

[spanishprincess]

Eduardo I love this print so much, and 158 did an awesome job. I love to shop locally so is very easy to stop by at xenon products plus with more than 5 years printing I have not found cheaper prices than this guys.