TW Metallics

[ohdanielsan]

Who here has extensive experience with TW metallics?

What is the highest mesh count I could print with using TW metallics and still get a nice, solid coat of ink on the paper every time?

I'm hoping to use at least a 200 mesh (but 230+ would be optimal), because the print I'm considering doing is going to use a full-flood of ink on the paper, and I've noticed that 160 mesh (which I usually use for metallics) allows too much ink to go down on the paper. I've also noticed that it leaves a rough texture that is hard to lay other colors over.

If TW metallics can't print through anything higher than a 160 mesh, is there a particular brand of metallic powder that can handle high mesh printing?

[crosshair]

160 is horseshit.
200 has been fine for me unless I'm using something with huge flakes like Cres Lite extra brilliant aluminum.
180 is better. It depends on your paper too.
Sharp squeegee is key.
Are you getting a pre-mixed metallic from tw? You should mix it yourself from powder and base in the quantity you need. Once it's mixed, it isn't really shelf-stable.
Creslite makes loads of powders. The finer the milling, the less reflectivity, but the easier it is to print. I think TW just resells Creslite.

TW makes a 'metallic clear' mixing base but it's just the same stuff watered down.
Gloss base will give a shinier metallic than flat, and a smoother finish.

[ohdanielsan]

oh no, i haven't actually used TW metallic yet, that's why i'm curious.

i've only ever used speedball gold/silver and nazdar 9500, and i play it safe with the 160 to get those working. i haven't actually tried a 200 with them, but i did try a 230/250 recently and it froze in the screen after the 3rd print.

so but you've been cool with TW on a 200? anything higher?

yeah, i'm considering the Creslite option too. i just figured premixed would take the guess work out of things. i'm certainly not opposed to it, though.

[ohdanielsan]

FTR, i've actually been really happy with the results i've had from 160 mesh prints, but my only gripe has been the rough texture they leave and the fact that it won't be safe to print that heavy of an ink deposit with a full-flood print.

i even printed some pretty small gold halftones last night on a run of 500 record sleeves. really consistent. but yeah, different scenario than the one coming up.

[Andymac]

powder and clear, 230 mesh no problem. I buy the super fine powder. I run it reasonably thin to keep it open. the trick is to mix in enough for opacity. and keep stirring and mixing in fresh ink on your screen and in your bucket.

Like Dan said, good luck trying to keep it or use it after mixing and printing. it just separates into a mud at the bottom, and the clear goes all weird.

You may find the first few prints you have clumps of unmixed powder, this goes away after a few pulls.

[crosshair]

I've had some frustrating experiences trying to print metallics through 230.
Not disasters, but I hate to have to hit anything twice. I'd rather use 180-200 and know I'll get consistent coverage.

[ohdanielsan]

thanks for the tips bros. yeah, probably gonna keep it safe with a 200 and super fine powder. well, assuming this job goes through, but that's another story.

[Fools Gold]

I print the powders sold through Nazdar, with TW 5000 or Naxdar 9700 clear, through a 280 or 255 mesh and get 100% coverage over black paper in one hit. The silver is like a mirror . .

[Andymac]

the powders exported to Canada are all ground to metric equivalent sizes, so they are 2.54 times finer sounding than their USA/thousands of an inch equivalent. Plus we have french warning labels.

[Fools Gold]

I almost wish I could mix all my colours with that stuff. The metallics are the most opaque inks I have . .