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Andymac services www.squeegeeville.com equipment www.tmiscreenprinting.com Todo es empezar. |
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ok, so undercutting is not as big of an issue as it seems, which is good. So now I'm basically between the UV fluorescent method and the 1000w or 2x500w methods. From what I've gathered:
UV fluorescent- faster exposures, more efficient (questionable since it would be an 8x40w set up or something like that), more expensive (8 bulbs @ $13 or so a bulb), involves a lot of wiring and time to set up, looks way cooler High Wattage Halogen- longer exposure time, produces a lot of heat (needs a fan for cooling), significantly cheaper ($50 or so for the light), easier to set up and no real wiring required, marginally more ideal single-point light source I think with my requirements (mainly ease and cheapness) it would be a better idea to go with a single point 1000w or 2x500w system, at least for the time being. Thoughts? |
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No i was impressed with how short the time is. I use dxp pink emulsion and my exposure times are significantly longer with the source 21" from the screen. I suppose I could try QTX at some point although I like how the dxp holds up. But anyway it is kinda moot since I am switching to the metal halide.. we'll see!
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this is what came with my new exposure unit,
but I'm still using 5 fluorescent black lights about 6 inches from the glass. It requires 220V and I run my shop as a co-op and don't want anyone hurting themselves. QTX 10 seconds for film/tansparencies 40 seconds for oiled paper 6 minutes for unoiled paper
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"I guarantee, the image will not be fade off and you will be pleasure it too. " - a bootlegger "I agree with the slut." - mrblonde7 "fudge isn't sharp"-phoondaddy |
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you can rent it out to movie openings and whatnot
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i like fun. website: www.strawberryluna.com blog: www.strawberryluna.wordpress.com GP: http://www.gigposters.com/designer/4...berryluna.html |
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