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I've had some stuff fade out pretty bad without UV protection. I'd say it's worth it, as long as the UV plexi actually cuts the UV.
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http://designmedicine.com |
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glitchbox...i would hesitate to directly attach the prints to the board b/c the value of the print instantly decreases. If you are going to get it framed ask for mylar corners or mylar strips to keep the print on the board that way you can easily remove the print from the frame if necessary. Just flatten them real well and if the print isn't too big like 24 by 36'' you usually won't have to many issues with waviness or buckling unless the paper stock is really thin. also if you want to "float" a print and you don't want to see the mylar corners/strips in the frame then ask for japanese hinges which is an archival method of attaching artwork to the backboard and its reversable. Just make sure the people know what you are talking about and are reputable framers.
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Quote:
Do you guys purchase the mounting board when buying frames through AF? I know you don't actually mount the prints, but does it give the poster a tighter fit in the frame to prevent waves? |
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I buy the archival backing board - it's really not expensive at all and for an acid-free surface, just easier for me to get it as part of the package.
As far as frame styles, I've got a bunch of Leia prints in simple matte black radius frames. For the wood stuff, I always look at a lot of different things and then head into the Econo-wood line to save some $. The styles look very nice and crisp - have stuff in the thin width walnut and cherry, the simple flat black 3/4" wide one (forget the name) and a couple of others - all look great. I'd also recommend calling AF for a sample on a frame (especially wood) if you want to see them - they'll send your 3 free samples, then you have to order. Then you can do it again
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EB Art Guide: http://www.expressobeans.com |
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i need to take photos of how i treat rare poster in my own collection. its a NO UV PROTECTION/NOARCHIVAL MATTE hell.
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